By bicycle and train
Select the itinerary which interests you.
ALONG VIA AURELIA
VIA CASSIA AND VIA CLODIA
THE AGRO CAPENATE
THE ROMAN SABINE AREA
TIVOLI AND THE NIENE
VIA SUBLACENSE
THE COLONNA FAMILY FIEFDOM
TOWARDS MONTI LEPINI
THE CASTELLI ROMANI
THE SOUTHERN COAST
ALONG VIA AURELIA From Manziana to the castle of Santa Severa
This itinerary unfolds along a gentle descent from the mountains to the sea. Visitors cross the thick wood of the Macchia Grande di Manziana (large thicket of Manziana) and the fascinating scenery of the Caldara di Manziana, a lake with sulphurous effusions, and reaches the town of Sasso. From here, gentle farmed hills lead down to the sea, close to the imposing castle of Santa Severa.
Take the Roma Ostiense - Viterbo and Viterbo - Manziana/Canale Monteranno railway line and get off at the station of Manziana. From the station, go up towards the main square in the town: from the garden you have a view of the wonderful scenery of Lake Bracciano and Castello Odescalchi.
The town of Manziana, at the feet of the Monte Calvario (541 m.) was built in the middle of the 16th century as a rural village for the Pio Istituto di Santo Spirito in Sassia (religious institute). From the square, starting from the baroque fountain, walk a few hundred metres along a one-way road in the opposite direction until you reach the first crossing, where you take the tree-lined road to the right which leads to Via Braccianese. Once you have crossed this, you will find yourself deep in the midst of the Macchia Grande di Manziana. The entrance to this magnificent wood with its superb turkey oaks and forest trees, is marked by a barrier; once you have left this behind, follow the dirt road until you reach the asphalt. Follow the main road which leads to the town of Sasso. Here you will find the fork in the road for the Monumento Naturale della Caldara di Manziana (marked by road signs), which you reach after a few hundred metres and is well worth a visit. This is a strip of whitish earth scattered with smoking sulphurous springs, which owes its name to the morphology of the site, similar to a great cauldron. By following the asphalt road, which is not very busy, you can reach the town of Sasso. This only has a few houses, grouped around a square. You can access it via an embattled gate: inside there are the ruins of an ancient castle. From Sasso, a small dirt road leads to the sea. Close to the bridge of the motorway you can take the asphalt road again which, after crossing via Aurelia, leads to Santa Severa. The station is before the historic centre of the town, but it is worth visiting its old castle (11-16th century), the walls of which enclose a small village, before leaving.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Roma Ostiense -Viterbo, Viterbo - Manziana/Canale Monterano Return: Santa Severa - Roma Ostiense |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 24 km Difficulty: easy |
For further information, contact: Parco Regionale Bracciano Martignano, tel + 39 06 999120220. www.parchilazio.it
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VIA CASSIA AND VIA CLODIA Around Lake Martignano
This itinerary follows, in its first part, the circumference of Lake Martignano, set within the area of the Park of Lakes Bracciano and Martignano and crosses hills and wide expanses of a wild and silent nature. From this lake Lake Bracciano can be reached, and the trip ends in Anguillara, a pretty historic town on the lake shores. Take the Roma Viterbo line and get off at the Cesano di Roma stop. Once you have left the station, take the road in front of the square, which is the only stretch of road with traffic on it in the whole itinerary. After a few uphill bends, you reach the fork in the road which leads to the town (indicated by road signs); leave this behind and follow the main road until you reach the beginning of two dirt roads: the second leads to the protected Park of lakes Bracciano and Martignano. The hilly wood of this area is practically intact and allows pleasant bicycle rides among chestnut trees and silent countryside. Enter it and, after following a slope and some undulating ground, you will reach an asphalt road where you will turn left. The path follows the perimeter of the dry Lake Baccano, which reaches the basin of Martignano. This is a volcanic lake, characterised by slanting ridges, which means that the road is steep, until it opens onto the magnificent view of the lake basin. If you continue along the slope (which is in asphalt), you reach the Casale di Martignano, where the path becomes a dirt road again, follows the lake, goes up to the right until it crosses another old dirt path which you must take to the left and climb a rise. Once you have passed this, head towards the Fontanile di Mola Vecchia (drinking trough). From here, after a ditch, take the road to the left which leads to Anguillara, and enter the town, set on a pointed promontory which seems to draw an angle, which may have led to the old name of Angularia. Ramparts and towers recall the medieval origin of the town and the monumental 16th century gate leads to the Piazza del Comune, which offers a wonderful view of the lake. The town also still has the Castello Orsini, dating back to the 16th century. From Anguillara, take via Anguillarese which leads to the railway station, well marked by road signs.
| By train: |
Outward journey: From Rome Termini station to Cesano di Roma (Roma-Viterbo line) Return: from Anguillara station to Rome Termini |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 24 km Difficulty: average, short but with a steep hill in the first part. |
For further information, contact: www.parchilazio.it. Parco Regionale Bracciano Martignano, tel. + 39 06 9986627, + 39 0699806261
Not recommended in the middle of summer.
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THE AGRO CAPENATE The Tiber valley: along the shores of the Tiber
This natural itinerary along the bicycle path in the Nazzano- Tevere Farfa Nature Reserve affords an unusual view of the Tiber, which crosses woods where different river birds live. Many observation points allow visitors to hide and view the wonderful scene of migratory birds, among which the rare osprey can be spotted.
Take the Roma-Orte line and get off at Poggio Mirteto. From here, head towards Torrita Tiberina and continue straight on until you reach the bridge above the railway tracks. Don't pass this, but turn left and go down the dirt road which, once it has passed the railway underpass, enters the Nazzano- Tevere Farfa Nature Reserve. This path, which follows the left bank of the river, is called "La Mola". A climb to the right, followed by a descent in the same direction, leads to the banks of the river which in turn leads to the Casale della Mola, placed where the tributary Farfa dives into the Tiber. It is a scenic position where some observation points for fauna have been set up. The dirt road then heads away from the Casale, crosses the wide plain of Nazzano and enters the thick of the wood. Here the steep descent of the Fosso dell'Inferno leads to the entrance of the reserve and, now that you have already crossed 12 km, you can choose to continue your visit in the reserve by crossing the bridge on the Tiber and exploring the opposite bank (another 12 km). The bicycle route, well indicated by road signs, borders the river banks and is the same both on the outward and the return journey. Within the reserve, scenery is varied and the swampy areas are populated by many species of plants and animals. Visitors will find explanatory panels which give information on the nature of the area and see the Museo della Notte (Night Museum) which is dedicated to nocturnal animals. Once you head back towards Poggio Mirteto, before going to the station, you can see the old town, lying atop a hill and partly closed in by 14th century walls. The Museo Civico Ercole Nardi stands here too showing, in the demo-anthropologic section, what the houses in the area were like at the end of the 19th century.
| By train: |
Outward journey: from Roma Tiburtina or Ostiense station, take the train towards Poggio Mirteto Scalo (Fiumicino-Orte line) Return: from Poggio Mirteto Scalo station take the train to Roma Tiburtina or Ostiense station (Orte-Fiumicino line) |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 14 or 28 km Difficulty: easy, nearly completely on level ground. |
For further information, contact: Riserva Regionale Tevere Farfa, Nazzano tel. + 39 0765 332533 www.parchilazio.it; www.parks.it; www.teverefarfa.it
Not recommended after heavy rainfall.
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THE ROMAN SABINE AREA Monterotondo and Mentana
This itinerary crosses one of the areas around Rome which has been inhabited longest, and is famous both as a holiday centre and for its wine. The great beauty of these hills has been partly ruined by modern building, but it still preserves unexpected Baroque treasures and beautiful views overlooking valleys. The trip starts at the station of Monterotondo Scalo which can be reached, from Rome, via the Fara Sabina-Orte line. Monterotondo is a small railway and industrial centre, linked to the production of bricks. You can reach the town by crossing the secondary exit on the left of the tracks; once you are on the road, turn right and then left until you reach Via Salaria. Now follow the road signs for Monterotondo, 5 km along Via Nomentana. This town had already been mentioned in 1074, when it was in the fiefdom of the Orsini, and then Barberini, families. Since 1626 the latter enlarged it and commissioned many interesting monuments. At the end of the uphill road which leads to Piazza 8 Martiri, go under an 18th century gate and enter the town. By following Via XXV Aprile you will find the S. Maria delle Grazie church, with the fine renaissance tomb of Girolamo Orsini. Return to the main gate and follow the road, uphill, to the Piazza dei Leoni, so called because of the fountain supported by 4 lions, and then cross Via Cavour until you reach the Cathedral, built in 1639 by Cardinal Carlo Barberini, in accordance with Bernini-like taste. From the 18th century gate, reach the top of the town where the Palazzo Municipale (town hall) or Ducale is, leave your bicycles and walk up to the wide entrance with a courtyard. The imposing castle was built by the Orsini family between the 14th and 15th centuries and preserves only one of its 4 original towers, which were often used as prisons for popes. You can request a visit to the floors above which are accessible via the royal stairway; the rooms are still decorated with mythological frescoes and views by Siciolante da Sermoneta and Paul Brill. Once you are back on Via Nomentana, follow the road, minding the traffic, for about 5 km; you will cross vineyards and olive groves until you reach Mentana, a medieval town which is still in good condition. This used to be the centre for the Sabine people, and Nomentum gave the name to the road which bears its name today and was built at about 1.5 km from the current Mentana. Its remains can be visited by crossing the town until you reach the Casali district, where square bricks walls can be seen. Once you return to Mentana, you will notice that the town unfolds along via Nomentana which however, within the town, takes the name of Via III Novembre. Follow the road until you reach the modern area and turn left onto Via Roma, where you can go into a small garden with cypresses where the Mausoleum and the Garibaldi Museum can be seen, a memorial to the 1867 clashes between French and Garibaldian soldiers. Once you get back onto Via III Novembre, close by, leave your bicycles and enter, on the right, the old part of the town, built on a spur of rock in a defensive position. Small roads pass under the old town gate: along these are scattered mediaeval towers, remains of sarcophagi, and Roman portraits incorporated into the facades of houses. Once you reach Piazza S. Nicola and its Romanesque parish church you can see the imposing Palazzo Baronale or Borghese, now a municipal building, standing in all its glory. It was once a castle of the Orsini family which was partially destroyed and rebuilt in the form of a tall, massive building embellished by balconies and rusticated walls. Inside, you can visit the Antiquarium with the archaeological finds of the ancient Nomentum and, more importantly, the Museo delle Maschere Teatrali e dei Burattini (museum of theatrical masks and puppets). Once you have returned to the main courtyard, go left under an arch and follow Via del Castello which borders the mighty tower built to protect the palace and its town. Back on Via III Novembre, follow the whole itinerary in reverse until you reach Monterotondo Scalo.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Take the FM1; from Rome Termini to Fara Sabina and Orte (get off at: Monterotondo Scalo - Mentana) Return: Take the FM1, from Monterotondo Scalo take the Rome-Fiumicino line. |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 20 km. Difficulty: easy |
For further information, contact: Museo delle Maschere Teatrali e dei Burattini: + 39 06 9093885
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TIVOLI AND THE ANIENE From Tivoli to Palombara
This is a short easy itinerary through one of the most well known and attractive towns in Lazio. This scenic route winds its way through the city and its neighbourhood and offers wonderful views of the lower part of the Aniene valley. Visitors can also choose to continue on foot and visit the Riserva Naturale del Monte Catillo (Monte Catillo Nature Reserve), whose summit offers a beautiful panorama of Tivoli and the plain at its feet. Tivoli can be reached via the Roma Tiburtina-Tivoli line (get off at the Guidonia Montecelio stop). Take the road to the right towards Villa Gregoriana (see next itinerary) and enter the city. Cross the Ponte Gregoriano, which offers a picturesque view of Roman temples built high above the Aniene waterfalls: this was one of the main stops for visitors who came to Italy on the "Grand Tour", and is immortalised in hundreds of prints and paintings, as are the impressive waterfalls below. The sacred area consists of a rectangular and a round temple. The first allegedly is the temple of Tiburno, the mythical founder of the city, and the second probably is the temple of the Sibilla Albunea or Tiburtina, a famous priestess who used to be questioned to know the will of the gods.
You can reach the Belvedere by continuing your route through the city: this is a public park with a magnificent view of Rome. If you follow the road back, you will find the Villa Gregoriana; turn left into Via Quintilio Varo, a panoramic road leading to Marcellina. Once you reach a marble arch you can see, to the right, a well-marked path leading to the Riserva Naturale del Monte Catillo. This scenic route then continues with several gradients, due to hillside bends, and twice crosses the arches of the Rome-Pescara railway line, offering fine glimpses of the Aniene's smaller waterfalls. Visitors will then reach the Palombara Sabina stop, the old Palumbaria which spiralled up a hill: it was once part of the Savelli family fiefdom, as well as of the Borghese and Torlonia families' domain. The San Biagio church on the main square still has a painting by Antonio da Viterbo, while at the entrance of the town stands the small church of the Annunziata, with an Annunciation by Antoniozzo Romano. By following a path to the left of the church you can take a 30-minute detour to see the S. Giovanni in Argentella church, passing through thick olive groves and a valley of cherry trees. This small Romanesque church was part of an old convent which has now been destroyed. It has a bell-tower with triple lancet windows and an apse decorated with small arches, while the façade has an entrance portico with Roman bas-reliefs and a shrine with a Byzantine Madonna. Inside the church there are 14th century frescoes and an extremely rare iconostasis in the Cosmati style. Once you return to the station of Palombara, take the pedestrian crossing across the railway tracks and continue straight on, up a short slope followed by a deep narrow valley. Once you reach the fork in the road close to a railway bridge, turn left up another short slope and border the tracks until you reach the asphalt road. Close to some laboratories, cross another railway bridge and turn left. Once you reach the main road for Palombara, head towards Guidonia and its railway station.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Roma Tiburtina-Tivoli line Return: Guidonia/Montecelio-RomaTiburtina line |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 14 km Difficulty: very easy |
For further information, contact: www.parchilazio.it R. Pugliesi, Lazio. Treni & bici. Il Lazio Settentrionale, Padova 2000.
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S. Gregorio da Sassola and Poli
This picturesque and fairly easy itinerary unfolds through rustic towns and artistic and monumental vestiges scattered throughout the countryside. Once you leave Tivoli station, head towards Via Tiburtina until you reach Villa Gregoriana: this is a large public park created by Pope Gregory XVI in 1835, on the bed of the Aniene river which changed its course after the terrible flooding in 1823. By walking through the park, visitors can admire wonderful views of the cliffs in the valley, the waterfall precipice, the remains of the Roman villas, the ancient ponte Valerio and the aqueducts. In the lower part you come to the Cascata Grande falls (large waterfall) of 100 metres and then access the Nettuno and Sirene grottoes, created by the violence of the water. Once you leave the park, take your bicycles again and head towards the city across the ponte Gregoriano, a bridge built by Pope Gregory XVI in 1843. Once you have crossed the historic centre of the town, you will reach the Belvedere overlooking the waterfalls; continue downhill along via Tiburtina for another 100 metres. Turn left onto via di S. Greogrio: here a rise begins which follows the hillside and offers views of the valley of the Aniene and reaches S. Gregorio da Sassola after several gradients. This small medieval town is, perhaps, the old Saxula, and is located in a strategic position on a spur of rock which saw many clashes and revolts against the domain of Roman noble families and the Pope. The palazzo Brancaccio is a suggestive fortress with towers and a drawbridge, richly decorated inside with frescoes by Federico Zuccai. The small medieval town is picturesque, but the Borgo Pio is particularly interesting. This was built by Carlo Pio di Savoia to redevelop the town after the plague which struck the town in 1656. The borgo consists of five identical groups of houses which alternate with each other along a straight road which ends in an oval piazza, and is one of the first examples of a rational building plan carried out in the Church State. Once you leave S. Gregorio da Sassola, the path continues along a gentle rise among thick olive groves spread out on the colle degli Astinelli until it reaches Casape, a fortified town built around a castle dating back to the 11th century, which was then transformed into a noble residence in the Renaissance. Once you have left the town, the route becomes more undulated and reaches the interesting town of Poli; from here a steep descent starts which leads back to the Aniene valley. Once you reach the fork in the road for Corcolle, perhaps the old Querquetula mentioned by Pliny, follow the road towards Zagarolo and Valle Inversa until you reach the station of Lunghezza.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Roma Tiburtina-Tivoli line Return: Lunghezza-Roma Tiburtina line |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 48 km Difficulty: average |
For further information, contact: Villa Gregoriana: F.A.I., +39 02 46761583 www.parchilazio.it R. Pugliesi, Lazio. Treni & bici. Il Lazio Settentrionale, Padova 2000.
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VIA SUBLACENSE The Arcinazzo tableaux
This is a rather long itinerary which crosses the heart of the Monti Simbruini, an area which is rich in forests and water, and reaches the majestic panorama of the Piana di Arcinazzo (tableau). The small towns of Arsoli and Cervara di Roma offer surprising small treasures of both modern and antique art. Arsoli is a picturesque town overlooking the valley of the same name, crossed by the Aniene river towards the east and dominated by the imposing bulk of the castello Massimo. According to legend, it was founded by the inhabitants of the destroyed town of Carsioli and became part of the property of the monastery of Subiaco. It was rebuilt in 776, passed to the Benedictine monks and then to the Passamonti, Zambeccari and Massimo families. Once you reach the town from the station, take via Umberto I which crosses the lower part of the town: at the end of the road leave your bicycles at the bottom of some steps and continue on foot, in order to reach the imposing castello Massimo. This is a unique monastery-castle built by Benedictine monks in 1000 and modified at the end of the 16th century: it consists of several different buildings and towers and boasts frescoes by Federico Zuccari and Marco Benefial, a small chapel with Cosmati-style decorations and a fine Italian park. Now take your bicycles again and return to piazza Valeria, where you will find an old milepost for Via Valeria, which marked the 38th mile, and the municipal stem with a phoenix. One of the historic houses gives onto the square, with an old column and gothic double lancet windows. To the left, steps lead to the parish church of the SS. Salvatore, planned by Giacomo Della Porta in a late-Renaissance style. Inside there is an unusual Mexican painting created in 1790 depicting the Madonna of Guadalupe and a Transfiguration by Domenichino. Leave the square behind you and take the fine scenic route which rapidly descends to the bottom of the valley, crosses the fosso del Bagnatore (ditch) and winds its way upwards along the hills which enclose the Arsoli tableau, while offering an excellent view of the Aniene valley at the same time. This way you follow the contours of monte La Prugna and reach, after a steep slope, Cervara di Roma, which is located within the Parco dei Monti Simbruini. The town is dominated by the ruins of a stronghold restructured by Pompeo Colonna, while in the lower part of the town you can admire a truly singular monument: the Scalinata degli Artisti (artists' steps) created by Vincenzo Bianchi in 1986, and consisting of a series of statues sculpted in the rock along the steps which connect the two squares of the town. Here you will also find the Museo d'Arte per la Pace (Art for Peace museum), which is a theme exhbition of contemporary artists. Further, close to the town's entrance you can see the interesting Museo degli Ex-Voto (Museum of offerings: for information call 0774.82.87.15) with jewels, embroidery and pieces of local craftsmanship, donated by the nearby sanctuary of the Madonna della Portella. Upon leaving the town, go down towards the fork in the road for Monte Livata and follow the road to the right for Subiaco, which you will pass in order to follow the road towards Arcinazzo, leaving Jenne and the Benedictine monasteries behind, as well as the Aniene river. Once you reach the fork in the road for Roiate, turn left and follow a road uphill which reaches the top of the valley, where you will see the striking Altipiani di Arcinazzo which offer a magnificent view of the valleys below. Descend on the opposite side of the mountain and turn right towards Piglio, crossing thick beech and oak woods. The panorama which you can now admire is that of the Valle del Sacco and the Selva di Paliano (forest). Cross Piglio, a famous winemaking centre in this area, by passing through a fine door in a building with Romanesque windows and arches, and continue downhill until you reach the strada statale 155 (main road). From here a cycling track, built on the old railway line, allows you easily to reach the station of Colleferrro, the starting point for your return journey.
| By train: |
Outward journey: from Roma Termini take the train to Pescara (get off at Arsoli) Return: from Cassino take the train for Rome (get on at Colleferro) |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 74 km Difficulty: medium-difficult |
For further information, read: R. Pugliesi, Lazio. Treni & bici. Il Lazio Meridionale, Padova 2000
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THE COLONNA FAMILY FIEFDOM
Zagarolo and the Inversa Valley
By following the Pedemontana road you will go from the colli Prenestini to the lower valley of the Aniene river, crossing through narrow wooded valleys cut into streams which flow into the Aniene. From the castle of Passerano you can take a detour into the calm countryside of the Agro Romano, and fine artistic excursions are offered by Zagarolo and Poli, strategic feuds which were used by Roman nobility to keep control of the countryside. Starting from the station of Zagarolo, take the busy strada statale 155 (ss, main road) towards Palestrina. Follow the road signs and turn right until you reach the next fork in the road for Zagarolo (turn left), then take Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Zagarolo was probably a Latin colony founded against Rome. In 970 the town was a strategic fortress in defending the area against Arab incursions. It was owned and destroyed several times by noble Roman families and was finally dominated by the Colonna family until 1668, then by the Rospigliosi family. Pass through Porta Rospigliosi, built in the 18th century by reassembling the Roman pieces, and reach the Palazzo Colonna-Rospigliosi. This old medieval castle was the centre of the whole town and is preceded by a courtyard with Roman statues and sarcophagi. The Colonna family restored it and commissioned the painter Federico Zuccari to decorate it: he celebrated the powerful family in his frescoes. The Ludovisi family had Carlo Maderno add the Galleria Nobile to the building, as well as other frescoes. Inside is the large Museo del Giocattolo (Toy Museum: for further information, contact +39 06 9575500) which shows the evolution of toys from ancient to modern times. Further on, you will find the church of S. Pietro and the Collegiata di S. Lorenzo (collegiate church) which, although heavily damaged during the war, preserves fine frescoes by Antoniazzo Romano and paintings by Carlo Maratta.
Once you are again back on the strada provinciale (by road) for Tivoli, which winds across a rich green valley, you will cross via Prenestina, and then take via Pedemontana. Go down a long wooded gorge until you reach the estate of Passerano. Pass by the castle, an old feudal residence for controlling the countryside, and choose between continuing straight on, crossing a tributary of the Aniene, and continuing your trip in a fine calm stretch of the countryside, or turning left and reaching the crossing for Poli. A short detour leads to the medieval town, located in a strategic position on a spur of rock. It was already well-known in 1081 and was owned in turn by the powerful counts of Segni, by the Sforza-Cesarini and the Torlonia families. Its 16th century church, which has an octagonal plant inspired by Vignola, and the Palazzo dei Counti (counts' palace) are particularly noteworthy. The latter was built in the 12th century and restructured in the 16th. The entrance is via an imposing Renaissance gate with an entrance hall decorated with grotesques. The small courtyard has an imposing fountain and a porticoed façade decorated with frescoed logge. Inside, there is the pretty family chapel, covered by stuccoes and enriched with paintings by Cavalier d'Arpino. Once you return to the crossing for Tivoli, turn left towards Rome and follow the road signs for the motorway, to the right. Mind the traffic, and pass under a viaduct, continue along the road on the right until you reach Lunghezza, which is located in a scenic spot on one of the bends of the Tiber and has a fine castle, a massive rectangular stronghold with quadrangular towers. Leave the castle behind, and continue straight on until you reach the railway station.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Roma - Cassino line (get off at Zagarolo) Return: Lunghezza-Roma Tiburtina line |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 24 km Difficulty: average |
For further information, visit: www.parchilazio.it Or read: R. Pugliesi, Lazio. Treni & bici. Il Lazio Meridionale, Padova 2000.
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TOWARDS THE MONTI LEPINI
Towards Gorga
The valley of the Sacco river is the main geographic guideline which opens onto the Latium plain and influences the whole mountain, hydrologic and urban structure, as well as the road system, of the Rome area. This is a difficult itinerary, which follows this valley and leads to the top of the Monti Lepini, crossing through some of the most picturesque and representative historic and artistic towns of this area. The itinerary starts at Sgurgula train station: the nearby bridge crosses the Sacco river whose fine waterfall can be admired close to a medieval watch tower. Follow a steep slope which leads to the town, spread on top of the plain and sloping down towards the top of the colle della Rocca (hill of the fortress), where the remains of the Colonna castle are. According to tradition here, on 16 September 1303, in the piazza dell'Arringo, the conspirators met who later attacked Pope Bonifacio VIII in Anagni (known as the "slap of Anagni"). Just outside the town, close to the cemetery, stands the church of S. Maria in Viano which is well worth a visit: this was a Cistercian abbey before, and preserves interesting frescoes. Retrace your steps and turn left again towards Gorga; follow the descending hillside road through a thick wood with fine views of the underlying valley of the Rio river. Turn right at the next crossroads and once you are at the bottom of the valley, turn left and start climbing towards the town. Several rather barren U-bends offer wonderful views of the different valleys and lead to the small town of Gorga, on the monte Volpinara, which boasts a breathtaking view of the Sacco valley and a medieval castle which was owned by the Ceccano counts and then by the Doria-Pamphilj family.
Leave the town and follow a steep descent towards the bottom of the green valley and the Rio river; follow the road signs for Gavignano, passing over brooks and gentle rises, then turn left and take the road which leads to the town. Three wide U-bends, which offer views of the Monti Lepini and the town of Segni, finally lead to the town. Gavignano is the dominated by the church of the Calvario (calvary), on the top of the hill which overlooks the whole Sacco valley. Lower down is the castello baronale (castle) where Lotario dei Conti di Segni, who later became Pope Innocenzo III, was born. Leave the town and head towards the Colleferro train station, crossing through an area with gentle rises. The town is not particularly interesting, as it was built in 1912 as an industrial development centre, but the Antiquarium Comunale (municipal antiquarium; for further information, contact +39 06 9781169) preserves interesting finds from the Sacco Valley, from the Palaeolithic to medieval times.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Roma Termini-Cassino line (get off at Sgurgola) Return: Cassino-Roma Termini line (get off Colleferro) |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 42 km Difficulty: high |
For further information, visit: www.parchilazio.it Or read: R. Pugliesi, Lazio. Treni & bici. Il Lazio Settentrionale, Padova 2000.
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THE CASTELLI ROMANI
From Castel Gandolfo, around Lake Albano, up to the Old Appian Way
This itinerary starts in Castel Gandolfo and borders Lake Albano, in its first stretch: the lakeside offers wonderful scenic spots. The itinerary then crosses the Parco Regionale dei Castelli Romani (regional park), on the outskirts of the woods of the Colli Albani (Alban Hills). After touring the borders of the lake head towards Frattocchie and, after crossing through rows of vines, reach the via Appia Antica (Old Appian Way), by crossing through the Parco Suburbano dell'Appia Antica (suburban park): you will then reach the town of Ciampino. Just outside Castel Gandolfo station take the road downhill which leads straight to the lake: follow it clockwise. The pretty town, which used to be a summer holiday resort for aristocrats and emperors, is well worth a visit: the central square is embellished with a fountain by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and the monumental papal palace rises on the ruins of a medieval castle. Pass the tunnel towards Rome and take the dirt track to the right; the path becomes an asphalt road for a small stretch and then becomes a dirt track again. It borders the crater and dives into the wood, and is interrupted by pleasant small beaches scattered on the lake shores. After a barrier and another stretch of asphalt road, cross through some canoing centres (enter via a gate) and return, after the tunnel, to the strada provinciale (by road) for Rome. From here, turn into via delle Castagnole: at the fork in the road, take the road downhill to the right and, after crossing via Appia Nuova and via Nettunense, you will reach the town of Frattocchie. Pass by the monastery of the Trappist Friars and take the road lined with cypresses which marks the beginning of via Appia Antica (Old Appian Way): it enters the Parco Suburbano dell'Appia Antica. The Old Appian Way heads straight towards Rome; it is interrupted by railway tracks and then continues with its typical flagstones, and its sides are scattered with Roman tombs. This landscape, where old ruins and beautiful wild and cultivated fields live side by side, is among the most fascinating in the Roman countryside. Now you can choose whether you wish to head on towards Rome or interrupt your trip near the stations of Santa Maria delle Mole or Ciampino.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Roma-Albano line (Roma Termini, get off at Castel Gandolfo) Return: Albano-Roma line (from Ciampino to Roma Termini) |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 20 km Difficulty: easy |
For further information, visit: www.parchilazio.it www.parcoappiaantica.org Contact: Parco Regionale dei Castelli Romani, Rocca di Papa, tel. +39 06 9495253 Parco della via Appia Antica: Tel: +39 06 5130682 Or read R. Pugliesi, Lazio. Treni & bici. Il Lazio Meridionale, Padova 2000.
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From Lanuvio to Lake Nemi
This itinerary starts in Lanuvio and crosses through some of the most beautiful parts of the Parco Regionale dei Castelli Romani (regional park), offering mysteriously fascinating views from the hilltops which give on to Lake Nemi. It crosses through the town of Nemi which, thanks to its off-the-beaten-track position (compared to busier roads), still preserves its old town atmosphere, and then reaches Marino, by taking via dei Laghi and passing by the Abbey of Palazzuolo. Take the strada provinciale (by road) just outside Lanuvio station and, after a gentle slope, enter the town of Lanuvio: turn right for the old part of the town. Once you have passed through the modern area, you will discover that the heart of the town still preserves its medieval appearance. The Collegiata dell'Assunta (collegiate church) is interesting for its many important works of religious art. Exit the town at the other end, and continue straight on after the fountain, crossing the public gardens which have a belvedere offering a wonderful view down to the sea. Leave the gardens behind you and reach the Appia Antica (Old Appian Way) which on the left leads to Genzano, where it joins the Appia Nuova again. From the main square in Genzano, dominated by the Baroque fountain, take the steep road to the right which leads to the next square. From here the road to the right descends rapidly and dives into the woods, offering frequent magnificent views of the lake. Pass by the Museo delle Navi (Museum of the Roman Ships) and border the lake until you find the road signs for Nemi. The road is uphill and, before entering the town, it opens on to a hanging garden with a pleasant view of the lake. In the heart of the town there is a castle built by the counts of Tuscolo, which is easily identifiable thanks to its cylindrical tower. The old town lies around this building, which was later turned into the Palazzo Baronale Ruspoli. Exit Nemi and take via dei Laghi (on Sundays this is often busy) and follow it to Marino, in order to reach the station for your return journey. We recommend that you stop off at the Abbey of Palazzolo which has a wonderful terrace giving onto the picturesque Lake Albano.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Roma Termini -Velletri line (get off at Lanuvio) Return: Albano-Roma line (from Marino station to Roma Termini) |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 35 km Difficulty: average, some steep hills |
For further information, visit: www.parchilazio.it www.parcoappiaantica.org Contact: Parco Regionale dei Castelli Romani, Sede del parco regionale dei Castelli Romani: tel. +39 06 9495253 Or read R. Pugliesi, Lazio. Treni & bici. Il Lazio Meridionale, Padova 2000.
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THE SOUTHERN COAST
The nature-track of the Perna Valley
This itinerary unfolds in the Riserva naturale di Decima-Malafede (nature reserve), one of the largest and most varied around Rome. It is easy and instructive, and can be folowed both on foot and by bicycle, and leads to Casal della Perna farm. There are many different options to choose from, including paths towards the Sughereta di Vallerano (cork forest), the castello di Decima, the casale della Zolfatara, passing through centuries-old woods and traces of prehistoric and Roman settlements. From the Eur Palasport underground station, take Via Cristoforo Colombo (mind the intense traffic): pass by the pretty Laghetto (lake) and take in the fine gardens with Mediterranean species and beautiful Japanese cherry trees. Futher on, visitors can admire the fine Palazzo dello Sport building, now Palalottomatica, built by Pier Luigi Nervi for the 1960 Olympic Games and recently completed with an interesting conical sculpture by Arnaldo Pomodoro. Once you reach a large crossing with traffic lights, follow the main lane and the road signs for via Pontina. Continue straight on, passing under the flyover of the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA, ring-road), until you reach Spinaceto: don't enter it, but turn left via a roundabout and follow the road to the right, parallel to via Pontina, following the road signs for the Nature Reserve. At the second fork in the road, turn left and follow a white road lined with eucalyptus trees: this was once a swampy, malaria area and the monks of the nearby Abbey delle Tre Fontane systematically planted these trees as they believed that they purified the air from the miasma of the infection. Continue along this road into a small valley and pass by a horse-riding centre: after this follow a road uphill which leads to the farmhouse of Torre di Perna, an old watchtower transformed, in the 16th century, into a hunting estate and now into a farm. Here there are several road signs which set out the different routes. Turn left onto the path which leads to the beginning of the valle di Perna (Perna valley), which then goes downhill. A fork in the road leads to the bottom of the valley, marked by a ditch which goes into a wood of cedars and holm-oaks. Return to the fork in the road, turn left to reach the top of the Monti della Caccia (hills) where some centuries-old cork trees grow. Further on, you will see a tuff quarry: the ring-like path now ends and leads back to the entrance.
| By train: |
Outward journey: Line B underground railway (get off at EUR Palasport) Return: Line B underground railway (get on at Eur Palasport) |
| By bicycle: |
Length: about 16 km Difficulty: easy |
For further information, contact: Riserva Naturale Decima-Malafede, +39 06 84497483
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