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ROUTE MAP
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HISTORICAL AND NATURAL ATTRACTIONS
Via Tiburtina continues, after Tivoli, with the name of Tiburtina-Valeria. Along the hill tops which border the road visitors can admire Castel Madama, Vicovaro and, just two kilometres from the latter, the splendid Convent of San Cosimato. However, the Aniene Valley isn't only about past history; this is proved by the artistic vitality of Anticoli Corrado, animated today by several artists' studies. On the main square, Arturo Martini's Noah's Ark fountain stands, archaic and powerful. Donations by artists who have passed through the town have allowed the Civic Museum of Modern Art to be born. Finally, the last stop in the Valley is Licenza, where Vigne San Pietro is, home to the ruins of the villa which Maecenas gave Horatio and which was often mentioned by the poet in his Odes.
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LOCAL PRODUCTS
Extra Virgin DOP Sabine Olive Oil
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PRODUCERS
ROME Azienda Agricola (farm) Terre Rubre
GUIDONIA MONTECELIO Caseificio (cheese factory) La Quercia s.r.l. Colle del Sorbo s.r.l.
MARCELLINA Consorzio Olivicoltori (association of olive growers) Sabina Romana Cooperativa Agricola (farmers' co-operative) Marcellina
TIVOLI La Ferrata Via dei Sosii L'Ape Artigiana Loc. Arci Napoleone Daniela e C. s.n.c.
CASTEL MADAMA Molino Conti Tenuta Colfiorito
CICILIANO Azienda Agrituristica (organic touristic farm) Valle del Giovenzano
VICOVARO Società Cooperativa Lucretilus
LICENZA Paia
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WHERE TO EAT
TIVOLI La Cerra S. Clemente Villa Luce
CICILIANO Al Giovenzano
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WHERE TO STAY
ROME Castello di Corcolle La lepre di Marzo
TIVOLI La Cerra Villa Luce
CICILIANO Al Giovenzano
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MARKETS AND FAIRS
TIVOLI Pizzutello (local grape) festival
CASTEL MADAMA New oil fair
LICENZA Chestnut, sagne and Farre Festival
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OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
BEHIND TIVOLI: MONTE CATILO
Visitors wishing to discover a world full of different plant species and extraordinarily interesting landscapes should spend some time in the Monte Catilo Nature Reserve. Many paths which unfold between hills and mountains, offer fascinating glimpses of nature, which are all the more unexpected as they are so close to the city. Given the calcareous nature of the rock, the landscape is at times bare and dry, at others fresh and shady; overall it is characterized by the karst erosive phenomena, including the dolines and the “karren”, or rutted fields. The mountains’ bowels have been furrowed by underground tunnels which carry the Aniene’s water towards the Villa Gregoriana, where if forms wonderful waterfalls.
Monte Catillo Regional Nature Reserve 06 67663301; montecatillo@tiscali.it; www.parks.it
Apogeo Ambiente srl 06 87186073 - info@apogeoambiente.it www.apogeoambiente.it
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A TRADITIONAL RECIPE
SAGNE AL SUGO - HOME MADE PASTA WITH TOMATO SAUCE
Category: first course Difficulty: medium Ready in: 1 hour Season: all
Ingredients (four servings) Home made pasta: 400g of flour, water (as needed) Sauce: tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil, 1 clove of garlic, ½ an onion, peperoncino (Italian small chilli), salt
Preparation Make a mound with the flour on your work surface and scoop out a well; gradually add water until the dough is smooth and elastic. Roll out the mixture in a thin pastry and let it dry for about 30 minutes. Dust with flour and fold over, then cut into strips about 1cm wide. While the dough is drying, place the oil, garlic, peperoncino and onion in a pan. Fry until brown, then add the peeled and squashed tomatoes and salt. Place the pasta in boiling and salty water and cook until it floats (about five minutes). Serve with a generous sprinkling of pecorino romano.
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HADRIAN'S VILLA
Via Tiburtina continues, after Tivoli, with the name of Tiburtina-Valeria, after the name of the consul in charge of the road's development in the Aniene's middle valley. This is characterized by the "cocuzzolo" (hill top) towns which follow one another on the hills along the road. The first of these is the graceful Castel Madama, whose name derives from "Madama" Margherita, daughter of Emperor Charles V, who married a Farnese prince, feudatory of the area. Vicovaro is also an interesting town; the Orsini family had one of the most interesting forms of Latium Renaissance architecture built here - the octagonal 'small temple' of San Giacomo.
Just two kilometres away from Vicovaro, the splendid Convent of San Cosimato is representative of the first traces of monastic life left in the upper Aniene by San Benedetto who in 500 A.D. left Rome to withdraw to Subiaco. The monastery was built on the ruins of a Roman villa, whose cisterns are still visible in the vaults. Here pope Gregorio Magno built an oratory dedicated to Saints Cosma and Damiano (590-604), although another tradition has it that this was built by Emperor Charlemagne, in thanks for the victory over the Saracens which occurred near here, known as the "battle of Cosimato". This is remembered in the cycle of medieval frescoes which decorate the convent's interior.
Under the monastic complex some scenic grottos open in the rocky cliff, where the first hermits withdrew to meditate. However, the Aniene Valley isn't only about past history; this is proved by the artistic vitality of Anticoli Corrado. From De Carolis to Kokoschka, Italian and foreign painters and sculptors alike have stayed here for long periods of time. Luigi Pirandello often spent his holidays here; Picasso too stopped here briefly and Rafael Alberti, fleeing from Francoist Spain, spent many years of his exile in this town. Today several artists' studies animate it; on the main square Arturo Martini's Noah's Ark fountain stands, archaic and powerful. Donations made by every artist who passed through the town have allowed the Civic Museum of Modern Art to be born - a unique collection, in its genre.
Finally, the last stop in the Valley is Licenza, where Vigne San Pietro is home to the ruins of the villa which Maecenas gave Horatio and which was often mentioned by the poet in his Odes. The estate spread around the poet's home; today only the external walls and a small part of the floor mosaics survive.
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