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ROUTE MAP
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HISTORICAL AND NATURAL ATTRACTIONS
Emperor Nero is the most famous character whose name is connected with the upper part of the Aniene Valley; he built a villa here, around three artificial lakes, created by damming the Aniene river. The first nucleus of Sublaquem, the future Subiaco, was the village built for the emperor’s slaves to stay in.
The real story of Subiaco, however, is mainly connected to the young (Saint) Benedetto who withdrew to the Sublacensi mountains when he was still very young and founded 13 monasteries. The Abbazia (abbey) di Santa Scolastica is named after the saint’s sister; the Sacro Speco was, on the other hand, built above the saint’s first hermit cave.
Apart from the road of the monasteries, the Rocca – stronghold – which stands above the town, is worth visiting in Subiaco, as well as the small square of Pietra Sprecata and the church of San Pietro, placed at the centre of a medieval network of roads. The ruins of Nero’s luxurious villa, probably corresponding to the baths, are visible above the road of the monasteries.
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LOCAL PRODUCTS
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PRODUCERS
CERRETO LAZIALE
AFFILE
WHERE TO EAT
SUBIACO
WHERE TO STAY
SUBIACO
MARKETS AND FAIRS
AGOSTA
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Bruschetta (toasted bread) festival
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Fair of the “regina” bean
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Festival of the sagne (home made pasta) and the “maccaruni tunni”
ROCCA CANTERANO
AFFILE
ARCINAZZO
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OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
THE UPPER ANIENE VALLEY
The Aniene Valley is an ideal place to spend some free time immersed in nature; there are many trips which can be made either on foot, on a mountain-bike, by horse or simply by visiting the many historical-archaeological sites in the Simbruini area.
Visitors must not miss a descent along the Aniene river’s rapids; this can be done with a hydro-speed, a rubber dinghy or a kayak, or by canyoning through the narrow ravines whilst admiring the scenic surrounding nature. Periodically, orienteering races - sporting orientation competitions which are open to all, including the disabled - are organized on Monte Livata.
Parco Regionale (regional park) dei Monti Simbruini
0774 827215; monti.simbruini@parks.it
Canoanium Club Subiaco
320 9607393 (Giovanni Lozzi); g.lozzi@tin.it
Associazione Natura Avventura
06 42880810
naturaavventura@naturaavventura.it; www.naturaavventura.it
Gruppo Orientisti (orientists’ group) Subiaco
0774 84388; gosubiaco@libero.it; www.gosubiaco.org
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A TRADITIONAL RECIPE
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NERONIAN SUBIACO AND ITS MONASTERIES
Emperor Nero is the first famous character whose name is connected to the upper part of the Aniene Valley; he built a villa with several pavilions here, around three artificial lakes, created by damming the Aniene river. The first nucleus of Sublaquem, the future Subiaco, was the village built for the emperor’s slaves to stay in.
The villa was soon abandoned; in fact the town was said to have been re-founded, in the 4th century, by the Roman patrician Narzio.
The real story of Subiaco however starts at the end of the 5th century, when the young Benedetto (Saint Benedict, 480-547), horrified by the church’s internal strife in Rome, withdrew to the Sublacensi mountains. Here he lived for three years in the complete solitude of a cave, where the monk Romano lowered his meagre meals. Then he started preaching, at first to the shepherds in the area who were attracted by his charisma.
Later, he founded 13 monasteries based on the “pray and work” rule, which then spread throughout Europe. For about 30 years Benedetto continued his work, opposed by many, in the Aniene’s Valle Santa. After an umpteenth attempt at poisoning him had been carried out, in 529 the Saint decided to leave Subiaco and go to Montecassino, where he stayed for three years, until his death.
Subiaco was left with the monasteries, among which the abbey of Santa Scolastica, named after the saint’s sister; the Sacro Speco was, on the other hand, built in the 13th-14th century above the saint’s first hermit cave.
During the Middle Ages, the Sublacense abbey played an important role in the Church’s politics, as it was a large ecclesiastical landholder. The abbot Giovanni V (1073-1077) was particularly important, as he first strengthened the Rocca which still dominates the town today. In the 16th century Cesare, the famous Valentino, was born in the fortress, as well as his sister Lucrezia, renowned offspring of Pope Alessandro VI Borgia.
Later on the Rocca went to the Colonna family, who commissioned the interesting pictorial cycle of the 16th century which decorates its interior. Around the Rocca the medieval part of the town spreads, although unfortunately it was rebuilt to a large extent following the 1944 bombings.
The small square of Pietra Sprecata was rebuilt to its original design; the church of San Pietro, in the middle of a medieval network of roads, was built from scratch next to the 12th century bell tower, which luckily survived the bombings. Outside the town, via Sublacense leads to the junction with the road of the monasteries, next to the San Mauro bridge.
Just above, to the left, visitors can see the ruins of Nero’s luxurious villa, which probably correspond to the baths. The villa was built in 60 A.D. and included several pavilions. Recent excavations have provided new, interesting information on the complex, particularly on the nymphaeum, whose building technique recalls a similar one used in the Domus Aurea in Rome. In addition, these ruins are the most ancient architectural testimony of Benedictine monasticism; it was here that San Benedetto set his residence, by inserting the small monastery of San Clemente - which has hence disappeared - among the Roman structures. The road continues towards the abbey of Santa Scolastica, the most ancient surviving Benedictine monastery in the world. This included a scriptorium, where codex and manuscripts were copied with the specific “sublacense” type. In 1465 a historic event occurred here, as the first book in Italy was printed.
Manuscripts and “incunabulum” (first printed books) are preserved in the rich and fascinating library, which is the one of the monastery’s prides, along with the cloisters, the Romanesque bell tower and the neo-classic church.
Further up, clinging to the rocks, is the Sacro Speco; visitors can access it through the upper church, where a spectacular world of colours illustrates the life of Jesus, painted by maestros of the Siena school in the 14th century. In the lower church, the life of San Benedetto is portrayed in frescoes by the Magister Conxolus, a Roman 13th century painter. Within San Gregorio’s – Saint Gregory - chapel is a rare portrait of San Francesco – Saint Francis – who is depicted during his stay in Subiaco between 1223-1224. It was then that the abbot of Santa Scolastica gave him an ancient hermitage across the river, next to the city’s entrance, which in 1327 became the convent of San Francesco. This holds a fine triptych by Antoniazzo Romano with the Madonna, Child and Saints Francis and Anthony, as well as frescoes ascribed to Sodoma in the Cappella della Vergine – the Virgin’s chapel. Next to evangelic episodes, portraits of 16th century Subiaco citizens appear in the frescoes too.
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NERONIAN SUBIACO AND ITS MONASTERIES
