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Route map
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HISTORICAL AND NATURAL ATTRACTIONS
Along the Cerveteri – Santa Severa itinerary lie the interesting ruins of the Etruscan city of Cerveteri, whose ancient town walls are still partly standing. Other archaeological remains are those of the four necropolises, including the largest, the “Banditaccia”. One of the most representative tombs is the tomba della Capanna (tomb of the Hut, 7th century B.C.), dug in tuff. The tomba delle Cornici (tomb of the Frame, 7th century B.C.) has two seats, sculpted in tuff, at the sides of its entrance. The tomba dei Vasi Greci (tomb of the Graecian Vases) is, on the other hand, a large transverse chamber which leads into several burial chambers. The Museo Nazionale Archeologico Cerite (National Cerite Archaeological Museum), seated in the 12th century castle, exhibits important tomb offerings, given by rich private collectors. Close to Santa Severa’s castle a sacred area has been found where a sanctuary built to the Etruscan goddess Uni once stood; other finds and decorations are in the Antiquarium di Pyrgi, within the Castle. Visitors must not miss the picturesque Borgo di Ceri which, protected by its solid battlemented walls, is perched on a high tuff-stone spur overlooking the Sanguinara Valley.
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LOCAL PRODUCTS
Roman artichokes
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PRODUCERS
CERVETERI
CM Tartufi - Via Settevene Palo snc tel. 06 951510; fax 06 233216842 www.cmtartufi.it ; mauro@cmtartufi.it; fresh truffle; truffle sauces
Il Castello della Bufala - Via Settevene Palo, 21 tel. 06 9953592; fax 06 61697492 buffalo-milk cheeses
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WHERE TO EAT
ROMA
Cavendo Tutus - Via della Pisana, 950; tel. e fax 06 66162970; cavendotutus@mclink.it; certified organic vegetables and cereals; gardening and wheat-growing guides; guided tours of the Tenuta dei Massimi reserve, water park, cycle tracks, tennis and five-a-side football available close by.
LADISPOLI
Casale dei Girasoli - Via dell’Acquedotto Statua, 11; tel. 06 99270683; cell. 349 3113971; www.casaledeigirasoli.it; lippog@tiscali.it; artichokes, theme evenings
CERVETERI
Casale di Gricciano - Via di Gricciano, 177 tel. 06 9941358; fax 06 9951013 www.casaledigricciano.com; casaledigricciano@casaledigricciano.com fruit, extra virgin olive oil, vegetables, DOC red and white wine, cheese, honey and limoncello; tracking, archaeological expeditions, ceramic courses.
La Valle di Ceri - Via Piancerese, 30/32 tel. 06 99207007; www.vallediceri.it agriturismo@lavallediceri.it vegetables, DOC red and white wine; swimming pool, mountain-bike riding, equestrian school close by, visit to Cerveteri’s necropolis.
Le Grotte - Loc. Procoio di Ceri, Via S. Paolo, 24 cell. 338 3805523 - 333 1037351 eggs, olives, fruit, vegetables, poultry, wine, oil, products packed in oil, pickles; learning farm, visit to Ceri’s medieval town.
Podere Capanne - Via Casale delle Pulci, 95; tel. e fax 06 6678334; danielapagnotta@virgilio.it; vegetables, eggs, and eucalyptus honey; play area for children, barbecue area, mountain-biking, pony rides, children’s laboratory “Let’s make bread.”
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WHERE TO STAY
ROMA
Cavendo Tutus - Via della Pisana, 950; tel. e fax 06 66162970; cavendotutus@mclink.it; certified organic vegetables and cereals; gardening and wheat-growing guides; guided tours of the Tenuta dei Massimi reserve, water park, cycle tracks, tennis and five-a-side football available close by.
CERVETERI
Casale di Gricciano - Via di Gricciano, 177; tel. 06 9941358; fax 06 9951013; www.casaledigricciano.com; casaledigricciano@casaledigricciano.com; fruit, extra virgin olive oil, vegetables, DOC red and white wine, cheese, honey and limoncello; tracking, archaeological expeditions, ceramic courses.
Gli Ulivi - Fraz. Borgo San Martino, Via Doganale, 149; tel. 06 99207119; gli_ulivi@inwind.it; cereals, grapes, olives, fruit, oil and wine; water sports on Bracciano lake, nature walks, equestrian school at 2.5 km.
La Valle di Ceri - Via Piancerese, 30/32; tel. 06 99207007; www.vallediceri.it; agriturismo@lavallediceri.it vegetables, DOC red and white wine; swimming pool, mountain-biking, equestrian school close by, visit to Cerveteri’s necropolis available.
Podere Capanne - Via Casale delle Pulci, 95; tel. e fax 06 6678334; danielapagnotta@virgilio.it; vegetables, eggs, and eucalyptus honey; play area for children, barbecue area, mountain-biking, pony rides, children’s laboratory “Let’s make bread”.
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MARKETS AND FAIRS
ALLUMIERE Autumn fair and yellow bread festival (2nd half of October) tel. 0766 96010 - 966743 Return to the itinerary menu
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
The Monti della Tolfa (Tolfa mountains) ought, technically, to have been a large regional park. However, although the area has been ready for many years, the regional park has never been opened, for reasons which are still unclear today. There is a particularly interesting and comprehensive itinerary which allows visitors to admire all the characteristics of this area, and which winds along ancient tracks, leading to the sea. Another fascinating path is the Bosco (wood) del Quartaccio ring, which meanders through pastures, woods and delicate characteristic seasonal blooms. To fully explore this territory, however, a pleasant horse ride is highly recommended - definitely the most suitable “means” to travel in this territory; there are many equestrian centres offering expert guides and suitable training courses in this area.
Associazione Altair tel. 06 8100805 associazione.altair@tin.it; www.associazionealtair.it this itinerary is bicycle – horse – walk friendly
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A TRADITIONAL RECIPE
ROMAN-STYLE ARTICHOKES
Category: side-dish Difficulty: easy Ready in: 1 hr and ½ Season: winter
Ingredients (four servings) 8 artichokes, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 small bunch of Italian mint, Italian parsley, 1 lemon, 1 cup of extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper Preparation Clean the artichokes by removing the tough outer leaves and the prickly choke with a small sharp knife. Place them in water with lemon (to prevent discoloration). Mince the softer part of the stems along with the mint, garlic, parsley and season it with oil, salt and pepper. Fill the inside of the artichokes with the mixture and salt them lightly on the outside. Put the artichokes, head down, in a pan, drizzle the oil and add 6 tablespoons of water, cover them and let them cook on a medium heat for 40 minutes. Remove them when tender and the water has completely evaporated. (Source: Il Lazio a tavola - Oretta Zanini De Vita)
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THE ETRUSCANS: FROM CERVETERI TO SANTA SEVERA, DISCOVERING A HIDDEN CIVILIZATION
The building of via Aurelia (Aurelia Vetus, in 241 B.C. and then Aurelia Nova in 119 B.C.) marked the Roman conquest of Southern Etruria, an area stretching from Cerveteri to the sea, up to the northern boundary with Tuscany. The ancient Cerveteri, (Cisra for Etruscans, Caere for Romans) controlled a vast area because of its important commercial role, enhanced by an excellent road position. This was extended in Roman times with vie Aurelia and Clodia. In addition, the city’s proximity to the sea (6km), along with the three ports it was connected to, guaranteed maritime commerce, particularly with Carthage. The first contacts with Rome were friendly, but in 273 B.C. Cerveteri was forced to accept Rome’s preeminence and thus gradually lost importance. Today, only part of the Etruscan city’s wall still stand; other more substantial finds are those of the necropolises, including the largest, the “Banditaccia”. One of the most representative tombs is the tomba della Capanna (tomb of the hut, 7th century B.C.), dug in tuff and which owes its name to its sloping roof. The tomba delle Cornici (tomb of the Frame, 7th century B.C.) has two seats, sculpted in tuff, at the sides of its entrance. The tomba dei Vasi Greci (tomb of the Graecian Vases) is, on the other hand, a large transverse chamber which leads into several burial chambers. The Museo Nazionale Archeologico Cerite (National Cerite Archaeological Museum), seated in the 12th century castle, displays important tomb offerings which come from rich private collections, as well as more recent archeological finds. The exhibits are set out following an effective visual criterion which allows visitors to witness the stylistic evolution of Cerite artisan production. Cerveteri had three sea outlets: the harbour cities of Palo, close to today’s Ladispoli, Punicum (today’s Santa Marinella) and the biggest, Pyrgi, today known as Santa Severa. Here, close to the Castle a sacred area was discovered where a sanctuary built to the Etruscan goddess Uni once stood. In 1964 three engraved golden sheets were found, two in Etruscan and one in Phoenician-Punic; today there are in the Museo Etrusco di Valle Giulia, Rome. Other finds and decorations are in the Antiquarium di Pyrgi, within the Castle of Santa Severa. The castle was first mentioned in 1068. In the 12th century the characteristic Torre Saracena (Moor Tower) was built. The castle was once a summer residence for popes, but today it hosts exhibitions, concerts, cultural events and the Museo Civico di Santa Marinella (Santa Marinella Civic Museum). In the middle ages all the coastal cities, from Santa Marinella to Civitavecchia, were prey to Moorish incursions. Strong fortifications were built to resist these attacks, such as those which then became the castles of Santa Severa and Santa Marinella. The population abandoned the coast and took refuge inland, finding places which were easier to control and defend. A typical example of this is the picturesque Borgo di Ceri, protected by its solid battlemented walls and perched on a high tuff-stone spur overlooking the Sanguinara Valley.
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