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Route map
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Historical and natural attractions
This itinerary includes the archaeological area of the Taurine baths; close to this site, in the gentle hills of the Latium countryside, stand the modern baths of Finconcella. Not much is left of the old Civitavecchia, other than the Michelangelo fort, as the city was heavily bombed during the Second World War. The fort is the symbol of the city, and is located at the end of Via Garibaldi. The National Archaeological Museum is on largo Plebiscito, in the 18th century palace of the Dogana Clementina.
Leaving Civitavecchia behind, visitors can continue along this itinerary and head from the so called Latium Maremma towards the Tolfa Mountains.
Apennine wolves, wild cats and many wild boars can be seen along this itinerary.
The towns of Tolfa and Allumiere are perched on the mountains; ancient Etruscan memories survive here, such as the necropolis and the rustic Roman villa.
Close to Allumiere are the church of the Farnesina and the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Cibona, both of great interest.
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LOCAL PRODUCTS
Roman artichokes
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PRODUCERS
CERVETERI
CM Tartufi - Via Settevene Palo snc
tel. 06 951510; fax 06 233216842
www.cmtartufi.it ; mauro@cmtartufi.it;
fresh truffle; truffle sauces
Il Castello della Bufala - Via Settevene Palo, 21
tel. 06 9953592; fax 06 61697492
buffalo-milk cheeses
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WHERE TO EAT
ROMA
Cavendo Tutus - Via della Pisana, 950;
tel. e fax 06 66162970;
cavendotutus@mclink.it;
certified organic vegetables and cereals; gardening and wheat-growing guides; guided tours of the Tenuta dei Massimi reserve, water park, cycle tracks, tennis and five-a-side football available close by.
LADISPOLI
Casale dei Girasoli - Via dell’Acquedotto Statua, 11;
tel. 06 99270683; cell. 349 3113971;
www.casaledeigirasoli.it; lippog@tiscali.it;
artichokes, theme evenings
CERVETERI
Casale di Gricciano - Via di Gricciano, 177
tel. 06 9941358; fax 06 9951013
www.casaledigricciano.com;
casaledigricciano@casaledigricciano.com
fruit, extra virgin olive oil, vegetables, DOC red and white wine, cheese, honey and limoncello; tracking, archaeological expeditions, ceramic courses.
La Valle di Ceri - Via Piancerese, 30/32
tel. 06 99207007;
www.vallediceri.it
agriturismo@lavallediceri.it
vegetables, DOC red and white wine;
swimming pool, mountain-bike riding, equestrian school close by, visit to Cerveteri’s necropolis.
Le Grotte - Loc. Procoio di Ceri, Via S. Paolo, 24
cell. 338 3805523 - 333 1037351
eggs, olives, fruit, vegetables, poultry, wine, oil, products packed in oil, pickles;
learning farm, visit to Ceri’s medieval town.
Podere Capanne - Via Casale delle Pulci, 95;
tel. e fax 06 6678334;
danielapagnotta@virgilio.it;
vegetables, eggs, and eucalyptus honey;
play area for children, barbecue area, mountain-biking, pony rides, children’s laboratory “Let’s make bread.”
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WHERE TO STAY
ROMA
Cavendo Tutus - Via della Pisana, 950;
tel. e fax 06 66162970;
cavendotutus@mclink.it;
certified organic vegetables and cereals; gardening and wheat-growing guides; guided tours of the Tenuta dei Massimi reserve, water park, cycle tracks, tennis and five-a-side football available close by.
CERVETERI
Casale di Gricciano - Via di Gricciano, 177;
tel. 06 9941358; fax 06 9951013;
www.casaledigricciano.com;
casaledigricciano@casaledigricciano.com;
fruit, extra virgin olive oil, vegetables, DOC red and white wine, cheese, honey and limoncello; tracking, archaeological expeditions, ceramic courses.
Gli Ulivi - Fraz. Borgo San Martino, Via Doganale, 149;
tel. 06 99207119;
gli_ulivi@inwind.it;
cereals, grapes, olives, fruit, oil and wine;
water sports on Bracciano lake, nature walks, equestrian school at 2.5 km.
La Valle di Ceri - Via Piancerese, 30/32;
tel. 06 99207007;
www.vallediceri.it;
agriturismo@lavallediceri.it
vegetables, DOC red and white wine;
swimming pool, mountain-biking, equestrian school close by, visit to Cerveteri’s necropolis available.
Podere Capanne - Via Casale delle Pulci, 95;
tel. e fax 06 6678334;
danielapagnotta@virgilio.it;
vegetables, eggs, and eucalyptus honey;
play area for children, barbecue area, mountain-biking, pony rides, children’s laboratory “Let’s make bread”.
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MARKETS AND FAIRS
ALLUMIERE
Autumn fair and yellow bread festival
(2nd half of October) tel. 0766 96010 - 966743
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OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
The Monti della Tolfa (Tolfa mountains) ought, technically, to have been a large regional park. However, although the area has been ready for many years, the regional park has never been opened, for reasons which are still unclear today.
There is a particularly interesting and comprehensive itinerary which allows visitors to admire all the characteristics of this area, and which winds along ancient tracks, leading to the sea. Another fascinating path is the Bosco (wood) del Quartaccio ring, which meanders through pastures, woods and delicate characteristic seasonal blooms.
To fully explore this territory, however, a pleasant horse ride is highly recommended - definitely the most suitable “means” to travel in this territory; there are many equestrian centres offering expert guides and suitable training courses in this area.
Associazione Altair
tel. 06 8100805
associazione.altair@tin.it;
www.associazionealtair.it
this itinerary is bicycle – horse – walk friendly
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A TRADITIONAL RECIPE
ROMAN-STYLE ARTICHOKES
Category: side-dish
Difficulty: easy
Ready in: 1 hr and ½
Season: winter
Ingredients (four servings)
8 artichokes, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 small bunch of Italian mint, Italian parsley, 1 lemon, 1 cup of extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper
Preparation
Clean the artichokes by removing the tough outer leaves and the prickly choke with a small sharp knife. Place them in water with lemon (to prevent discoloration). Mince the softer part of the stems along with the mint, garlic, parsley and season it with oil, salt and pepper. Fill the inside of the artichokes with the mixture and salt them lightly on the outside. Put the artichokes, head down, in a pan, drizzle the oil and add 6 tablespoons of water, cover them and let them cook on a medium heat for 40 minutes. Remove them when tender and the water has completely evaporated.
(Source: Il Lazio a tavola - Oretta Zanini De Vita)
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BETWEEN CIVITAVECCHIA AND THE TOLFA MOUNTAINS
Civitavecchia’s origin is apparent in its first name, Centumcellae [one hundred cells]: it was a coastal area with many inlets, chosen by the Emperor Trajan to build Rome’s greatest military port, between 106 and 110 A.D.. The creator of this great work was Apollodoro from Damascus, the architect of the Trajan forum and baths in Rome. Following the destruction caused during the Second World War, not much remains of this great enterprise except some traces in the Roman basin in the small tourist harbour.
Trajan had a villa built to supervise the work; its imposing remains are a few kilometres away from the city, in the archaeological site of the Taurine baths. To visit these, next to highway A12, Civitavecchia Nord exit, visitors must call the city’s Pro-loco (tourist office; tel. and fax: 0766 20299). The imposing baths, part Republican/part Imperial era, are in excellent condition.
The modern baths of Finconcella are close to this site, in the gentle hills of the Latium countryside. A sulphur spring feeds five thermal pools with water between 35°C and 53°C. The baths are very popular because of the beneficial therapeutic effects, which had already been known to the Etruscans.
Aside from the Roman ruins, Civitavecchia’s renaissance fortifications testify the city’s new vitality after the long neglect following the Moorish incursions. Following the Second World War, however, not much was left of these imposing structures, except the Forte Michelangelo, symbol of the city and situated at the end of via Garibaldi.
In 1462 the discovery of important alum deposits in the Tolfa Mountains induced popes to strengthen the defenses of the city harbour area, so as to be able to export the precious mineral.
Starting in the 16th century, the most important architects working for the pontifical court were involved in the planning of increasingly efficient fortifications for the city. This phase begins precisely with the Forte Michelangelo, whose turreted structure still dominates the city today.
In 1508 Donato Bramante was the first to get involved in the fort, on Pope Julius II’s orders; he was followed in 1514 by Antonio Sangallo il Giovane, a famous military architect, then by Leonardo da Vinci.
It was Michelangelo’s turn next, who gave the name to the fort; in 1535 he completed the fortress and the octagonal donjon. In the 17th century an arsenal was added; its plans were drawn up Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Carlo Fontana. On largo Plebiscito, the 18th palace of the Dogana Clementina houses the National Archaeological Museum, which includes finds ranging from the protohistoric period to the Roman one.
From Civitavecchia the hilly landscape gradually develops into the so called Latium Maremma near the Tolfa mountains. The tolfetan area has a volcanic origin; its tops, smoothed by time, are not very high; the highest summit is the Monte Madonna delle Grazie’s (633 metres above sea level).
Thick woods of holm-oaks and forest beeches cover its slopes where some specimens of Apennine wolves, wild cats and many wild boars probably live.
The importance of these mountains is connected to their ore deposits (alum, iron, iritis and limonite, to name but a few), which the Etruscans already exploited. Despite the fact that the landscape has been altered by the mines and the many electric plants, the natural environment is still fascinating.
The towns of Tolfa and Allumiere are perched on these mountains; ancient Etruscan and Roman memories survive here, such as the necropolis near Tolfa and the rustic Roman villa on the Monte della Tolfaccia. Tolfa is dominated by its fortress and still has a medieval air, as well as harmonious renaissance squares and extraordinarily well-preserved palaces.
Allumiere is the highest town in the Tolfa area; its development was tied to the discovery of alum deposits which still exist today. The sanctuary buildings erected for the Reverenda Camera Apostolica are particularly interesting. Among these, the Chiesa della Farnesina is noteworthy as it is located in a characteristic 16th town. Close to the town, in an isolated position, is the Santuario della Madonna di Cibona; its name derives from the beechwood which surrounded the small chapel. This was commissioned by Agostino Chigi, one of the richest 15th century bankers in Rome. Following a miracle performed by the image of the Madonna, in 1637 the building of the monumental area started: this included a monastery and a church. In 1799 French troops sacked the monastery and started a period of long decline; today the baroque buildings are being substantially restored.
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Historycal itineraries
BETWEEN CIVITAVECCHIA AND THE TOLFA MOUNTAINS
